Beer of the Week - Aug 3, Quidi Vidi Iceberg Beer

Last Saturday, Teena and I took a cab over to Quidi Vidi Harbour to visit Quidi Vidi Brewery, take the tour and try a few samples.

The brewery sits on a very picturesque harbour in a reconstructed building that once was home to a fish processing plant. The plant was closed and abandoned after the cod moratorium was issued to prevent commercial cod fishing to try to bring back the fish stocks.

I originally thought that the brewery was brand new as I never had heard of it until they came out with Iceberg Beer this year.  However, I found out during the tour that I was very wrong. The brewery has been around for years, opened in 1996 by two engineers, David Rees and David Fong, who worked in the offshore oil industry.

The industry had taken them to various places around North America.  They noticed an increase in interest in the craft brewing industry and thought it might be a good fit for them and help to create new jobs for the area. So they hired a brewmaster, refurbished the old fish plant and started brewing. Today Quidi Vidi is the third largest brewer in the province behind the multinational breweries Labatt and Molson's.

Two years ago, an iceberg floated into the mouth of Quidi Vidi Harbour, became grounded and blocked the harbour until it was broken up by the wind and heavy waves. Seeing it gave David Rees an idea. How about brewing a beer made with water from an iceberg?

Is it just a gimmick for sales? I would say no.

I have read many articles since about iceberg water and they all say the same thing. First there is almost mineral content in the water. Second, icebergs are made from snow which has been compacted for 25,000 years and traps thousands of tiny bubbles. Apparently there is an old Newfoundland trick of keeping a chunk of iceberg in the freezer, then breaking off a chunk and adding it to any drink, creating an extra fizz that you wouldn't get from a normal ice cube.

The brewer played around with various recipes for beer made from iceberg water and finally launched their new Iceberg Beer this past spring. It is sold in a very nice blue bottle and the brewery is having trouble keeping up with demand.

They also came upon and unusual problem. The beer is sold in a very unique blue bottle, that people love and are reluctant to return for deposit. Almost no bottles were returned, even though the brewery offered 20 cents back per bottle despite only charging a 10 cent deposit. This didn't help ... in fact, two bottles came home with us!

So with a new batch brewed, they are now focusing on selling it in draft around the province. They still find demand hard to keep up with.

And the beer?

I have had it as a sample during the tour (the top photo), from a bottle at a bar and on draft and could find no difference in taste. It pours a light yellow colour with a light white head which dissipates rather quickly. The beer is quite clear and lively, almost a sparkling beer. There was no aroma which I could detect.

It is hard to describe the taste. The beer is lightly hopped and light in taste but the taste is there. It is lightly sour, maybe lightly bitter in its finish. Although it had a very light taste, something I don't usually find attractive in a beer, I loved this one. At the brewery, we could only have a couple of tastes and when Teena and I went to get some beer to sip on at the picnic tables by the water, we found they were sold out.

If I didn't like it, I sure would not have ordered it again but I found it deliciously refreshing. Teena and I walked around and down Signal Hill and when we finally stopped back in town, the first thing I ordered was an Iceberg draught! Later that night I had it again with supper, this time poured from the bottle.

As much as I like hoppy ales, and pilsners with a snappy finish, I really enjoyed this light tasting beer and if I lived in Newfoundland, it would be a summer regular in my fridge.

Beer of the Week Stats

Beers Profiled 173
Countries 34
Breweries 150
Provinces 9
Territories 1

Beer of the Week - July 29, Yellowbelly Pale Ale

I don't usually post the date in the title of The Beer of the Week, but due to vacation, some Internet issues while away, plus I forgot my mouse so doing anything using the touch pad was much slower and more frustrating, I got behind. So it's time to catch up!

On Sunday, July 29, Teena and I spent a half day in St John's, Newfoundland, before heading off to Saint-Pierre and we had the opportunity to stop into Yellowbelly Brewery and Public House. This was exciting for me, as I heard they have great beer and I have not yet done a beer from Newfoundland.

From the sounds of it, this was not an easy job to open this brewery. I read that it took over five years to renovate the building and open the brewery. Finally in July 2008, owner Craig Flynn with brew master Liam Mckenna opened the brewery.

So what took so long?

Well the building itself is very historic, being re-constructed after the first major St John's fire back in 1846. The building was originally built in 1725. Most buildings of the time were built out of wood, so to ensure their building could withstand any future fires, they built this one out of brick.

Good thing too for in 1892 was the second St John's fire which burned most of the city to the ground. To see the map showing the massive area of destruction this fire created makes you wonder how only three people died. One of the only buildings that survived was the building that Yellowbelly currently resides in. There are tours to the basement, which we couldn't fit into our schedule, where you can see preserved the blackened beams where the fire tried to creep through.

So there were five floors to renovate, plus a brewery and kitchen to create, and it all looks spectacular. I can see why it took so long!

So why the name Yellowbelly?

Irish immigrants used to fight in the streets of St.John’s, just like the movie ‘Gangs of New York’ portrayed. One such group wore a yellow sash around their waist and were known as the the Yellow Belly’s. Craig,  thought the name was catchey and paid homage to a piece of the past.

It was a quiet Sunday afternoon which gave Teena and I a chance to talk with Emily, who was looking after the bar. Emily looked after us very well and was very enthusiastic when speaking about the history of the bar and the beers they serve. Besides working there, she is also a rower, practicing twice a day at 5:30am and 6:30pm each day ... and I find two fencing practices a week rather hard!

She and her team were competing in Wednesdays St John's Regatta. I hope she did well.

And the beer?

It pours amber in colour and is filtered. There is a nice hop aroma to the nose. This is a very nice pale ale! It is not overpowering in bitterness and feels more like an English Bitter. There is a nice long hop finish but one that is not over the top.

Now this is the beautiful part. It weighs in at only 4.5% APV. How sweet is that? A beer with loads of taste and sessionable! When not having this at the bar, you can bring it home in 750 ml bottles.  After returning to St John's, I went down and bought six. As we didn't spend much time in our room, for of these came home with me.

Only three are left now, as I am having one as I write this ... and enjoying it. Might be another gone before this evening's through!

If you're in St John's, it's worth it to stop in at Yellowbelly!

Now only one more province left to try and that one is P.E.I!

Beer of the Week Stats 

Beers Profiled 172 
Countries 34 
Breweries 149 
Provinces 9 
Territories 1 

Eating ... Newfoundland Style!

Teena and I had a great time in St John's Newfoundland!

It is a fabulous place full of fun, adventure and the friendliest people you could ever meet. People would just start talking to you at bars, restaurants, even street corners. If we went to cross any street when not at a corner, the cars always stopped and waved. What you thought of Newfoundlanders being friendly, take that and multiply by ten!

Being on an island known for fishing and the freshest cod in the world, I was determined to eat as locally as possible, and for the most part I achieved that goal.There was only one dish I hated during my stay, I'm saving that one for last, but many I loved. In fact, I had a dish that I would rate as one of my favorites ever!

Time to take a look.

The best side dish was served at the Ship Pub. It was something called Newfoundland Poutine, with fries covered in turkey dressing and gravy. I don't like poutine but this rocked. It was the side dish to the pan fried cod which was excellent!

Up next is the place that served the best Fish Chowder and that was at Kelly's on George St. Hard to choose really as I had had a few and they all were good. This one had scallops, salmon, calamari, shrimp and cod in it, was very hearty and just so delicious.

Breakfast is so important to me and found the best place the first day. We tried elsewhere but were drawn back to Talamh an Éisc each time. I had fried bolgna and eggs, fishcakes and eggs, and always with touton. What is touton? Well, I was told they used to take leftover bread dough and fry it in pork fat. Now they use fresh dough and it is so good. I want to treat myself the odd weekend to this. Their homefries were not very good, but the rest of the plate rocked!

I had Fish and Brewis for the first time on the first day that I was there but enjoyed the Fish and Brewis served by Velma's on Water Street the best. It was drier and much tastier. I definitely not an expert but this fits more my idea of the traditional dish.

I would have to go back to Kelly's for the best pan fried cod. All the ones I tried were great but this one was a bigger portion and done to perfection!

The dish that I fell in love with, I almost didn't try. Cod au Gratin. The first day I was told what it was cod, cream sauce with a chedder covering. For some reason, it didn't appeal to me. Finally I tried it at the Celtic Hearth, which is part of Talamh an Éisc, and I found it one of the tastiest, most delicious meals I have ever tried. Admittedly the crochette potatoes on the side were tasteless but as for the Cod au Gratin this is a dish I have to duplicate at home!

OK, now to the worst dish of the week.

Every menu had Fried Cod tongues on the menu. It is not a special slice of cod. Every cod has a tongue and that is what is cut out and fried. It is a little costly as where a fisherman might get many fillets from a cod, each cod has only one tongue. Here is what they look like freshly cut and raw.

 

As I was debating about trying them, Teena was goading me on. "You can't go home from Newfoundland without trying these," she said. Funny but that rule didn't seem to apply to her.

Damyele, our server, said she would ensure they are fried a little crispier than usual as that is the way she likes to serve it to first timers. That really didn't make me feel any better. She did say it came with scunchions (deep fried pork bits) and mustard pickels.

 

And here they are in all their glory!

I bit in. They have a very nasty texture. The taste is not much better. No wonder Damyele said she would serve them crispy. Does Damyele like them ... hell no!

As it was eleven bucks, I was determined to do my own personal Fear Factor and finish them all. I found if I I cut them in half, added a scrunchion, and dipped them in the mustard pickle sauce it was somewhat palatable.

So that was my dining experience in St John's. Everyone knows that fresh is best and that certainly applies to cod. Will I have some now that I'm back in Toronto? Well, there's no way it can be as fresh but I bought some cod from the market today and plan to have it pan fried tomorrow.

I'll let you know how it goes!

Cruising Outside St John's Harbour

Today we went out with Iceberg Quest to look for whales and see Newfoundlands beautiful rugged coast.

I wrote about the whale part earlier. It was a fabulous trip on a beautiful day. Before we boarded, we were entertained and then given a safety talk.

Soon we headed out. St John's harbour is North America's oldest operating harbour and the village to the right is also the oldest fishing village in North America.

We passed a Canadian Forces naval vessel. The crew was all lined up for inspection. As they passed us, they saluted us and then waved. We cheered them as they passed. They saluted us ... hell, we should be saluting them!

Heading out of the harbour.

 

This is Cape Spear, the most easternmost point in North America and has the oldest surviving lighthouse in Newfoundland being built in 1839.

  Here we are!

 

Here are a couple of my favorite shots showing some of the ruggedness of the shore.

 

 

It was a great cruise and I would recommend to do this when in St John's. If I ever get a chance to come back, I would love to do it a little earlier in the year and head up to Twillingate to take a cruise with this company to see icebergs.

A Whale of a Tail!

Today Teena and I went on a harbour tour of St John's Harbour with Iceberg Quest.

Much to our surprise, we found that we were also going searching for whales. Some were seen during their last couple of trips out. The tour was two hours and was great.

The rugged scenery of the shores of Newfoundland is spectacular to say the least. Those are for another post. This one is about the whales.

We were out of harbour for about half an hour when we saw our first one. He was a ways off of our starboard bow (sorry but, hey, I can now say I've been to sea). First came the spout, then the back and then ... our first tail of the day!

Soon after another tail! It is amazing how slow and graceful they are as they come up blow, do a long slow arch and  slowly flip their tails into the air before doing a deep dive.

After a few minute of searching the ocean, we found a couple together, which the crew referred to as Mutt and Jeff. I was really lucky and caught the first one, along with a puffin!

We saw a boat fishing and, yes, he caught a cod!

When a whale dives, it laves a footprint on the water.

A short interlude for some puffins out on the ocean.

Kevin Callan was aboard filming an edition of The Happy Camper. He was fun to talk to. 

"There she blows! there! there! there! she blows! she blows!"  (from Moby Dick)

Finally, three more tails.

 

 

To quote a line from one of Teena's favorite films, "It's a hell of a day at sea, sir!"